Rome in 3 Days
Way back in 2010 I studied abroad in Rome, so one of the most frequent travel questions I get is what to do in the Eternal City. Obviously Rome has a lot to offer. I lived there for 4 months and felt like I just scratched the surface. But if you're pressed for time, here's the best way to see the main attractions of Rome in 3 days.
DAY 1: CITY CENTER
spanish steps, trevi fountain,Pantheon, piazza navona
Start at the Spanish Steps, aptly named after the Piazza where they preside, Piazza di Spagna. 135 Steps lead up to the church, Trinita dei Monti. Climb to to top to see the dome of St. Peter's in the distance and Rome sprawling out below you. The most picturesque time to visit the Spanish Steps is from April 21st to early May where the entire steps are decorated with pots of Azaleas. At the bottom of the stairs you will find Bernini's Fountain of the Longboat. Other attractions in the area are the Keats Museum and Via dei Condotti, where all the designer shops are ($$$).
Next, make your way over to the Trevi Fountain. Built in 1762 by Nicola Salvi, this is one of the most iconic sights in Rome. It is said that if you throw a coin with your right hand over your left shoulder you will one day return to Rome. The other not as well known version is if you throw in 2 coins you will fall in love with a Roman, and 3 coins will seal the deal with marriage. It is estimated that 3,000 Euros are thrown in the fountain a day, which in 2016 equaled to ~$1.5 million. All the money collected goes to local charities, so might as well give in to this cheesy tourist ritual and help out a good cause. My other favorite random fact is found in the large pot to the right of the the fountain, known by locals as the Ace of Cups. During construction a local barber criticized the sculptor, so as a final act of revenge Salvi sculpted the pot to completely block the view of the fountain from the barber's shop. The fountain is a sight to see both day and night, as the whole fountain is illuminated at dusk. Go early in the morning or later in the day to avoid the crowds.
Next head over to the Pantheon. One of my favorite buildings in all of Rome. The current building was built between 113-125 AD (the original was built in 27 BC and burned down in the great fire of 80 AD), and is one of the most preserved buildings of ancient Rome. To this day the Pantheon's dome is the world's largest unreinforced concrete dome. Originally the Pantheon was a pagan temple to the gods (Pantheon means "honor all Gods" in greek), but in 609 AD it was converted to a church. This is probably what saved it from being destroyed in the Middle Ages. Many of the bronze accents have been melted down for use in other buildings in Rome, but the large bronze doors and marble interior are all original. The only natural source of light in the Pantheon is the large oculus in the middle of the dome, which is 25 feet across. It is a sight to see when it rains, and the the water pours through the ceiling of this ancient building. Today the Pantheon officially serves as a church. Inside, the artist Raphael and two kings of Italy are buried.
After the Pantheon, continue west to Piazza Navona. Originally an ancient stadium (thus it's shape), Piazza Navona is now one of the most picturesque piazzas in Rome. Known as the artists square you can find many artists painting and selling their art (as well as street performers and peddlers). The highlight of the square is Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers. The fountain shows four figures each representing a major river from the 4 continents (known at the time) - the Nile (Africa), the Ganges (Asia), the Danube (Europe), and the Rio della Plata (the Americas) all surrounding a large obelisk. Other sights are Boromini's Sant’ Agnese in Agone Church and 2 smaller fountains by Giacomo della Porta. Back in the day (like 1600 - 1866 AD) they used to flood the piazza on the weekends essentially making a really big splash pad for those hot Roman summers.
If you still have time and energy enjoy roaming around some of the side streets of the historic center of Rome. Grab a gelato and stroll, you won't be disappointed.
Food in City Center:
Osteria dell' Anima (Via di Santa Maria dell'Anima): Located right behind Piazza Navona. Order the Fiochetti di formaggio e pera su crema di carote (Pasta stuffed with pear and cheese in a creamed carrot sauce). No joke, this is literally one of the best things I've ever eaten and think of it often! It's an absolute must every time I'm in Rome.
Chiostro del Bramante (Via Arco della Pace, 5): This lovely little restaurant/cafe overlooks a courtyard with frescos painted by Raphael. To get there walk past the ticket office next to the church (you don't need to pay admission to eat) and head upstairs to the cafe. I would suggest going for lunch. Menu changes based on the season. I had a killer asparagus risotto here last time I was in Rome.
Cantina e Cucina (Via del Governo Vecchio, 87): Happily stumbled across this restaurant when our our planned dinner restaurant was under renovation. The service here was FAST, which in Italy is nearly unheard of! So this would be a great place if you’re pressed for time or don’t want to commit to a super long dinner. Typical Italian fare. I can personally attest that the spinach and ricotta ravioli and lasagna bolognese were awesome. And definitely get an order of the rosemary focaccia bread! YUM!
DAY 2: ANCIENT ROME
Roman Forum, Colosseum, palatine & Aventine Hill
Now that you have a full day of sight seeing under your belt, it’s time to visit some of the most iconic sights in Rome and the world. One ticket will get you into the Roman Forum, the Colosseum, and Palatine Hill. I highly suggest getting tickets at the entrance to the Roman Forum as the lines will be shorter than at the Colosseum.
Once ticket is in hand, start with the Roman Forum. For centuries the Forum served as ancient Rome’s political, cultural, and social center. Eventually it fell into disrepair and by the Middle Ages it was reduced to a cow pasture. Finally in 1803 it was “rediscovered” and excavation began. It took over a 100 years, and to this day they are continuing to excavate within the Forum. With at least 28 different structures in the Forum and well over 800 years of history, there is a lot to take in. Some of the more notable sights are the Temple of Saturn, the Arch of Septimius Severus, the Temple of the Vesta and the house of the Vestal Virgins, and walking on the Via Sacra (in which you can still see the ruts of chariots in the road).
From the Forum walk under the Arch of Titus to get to the crème de la crème of Rome, the Colosseum. Easily Rome’s most recognizable monument the Colosseum was finished in 80 AD and with 80 entrances could house up to 50,000 spectators. For years the amphitheater served to entertain the masses with animal shows (parades, hunts, fighting wild animals), public executions, battle reenactments, and gladiator fights. It is estimated that over 500,000 people and 1 million animals died over the course of its use. The amphitheater was used for almost 500 years before they banned gladiator fights and animal sacrifice. Much of the damage to the Colosseum occurred after various natural disasters (most notably earthquakes). In later years many of the iron clamps used to hold the stones together were pilfered (thus all the holes in the structure), and the white marble that made up the facade and some inner seats was quarried to use in other buildings in Rome (most notably St. Peters).
Your ticket (same as the Forum) will allow you to go inside the Colosseum. Make sure to climb the stairs to the second level. From here you can get a good view of the Hypogeum- a series of tunnels, passages, cages and chambers that were below the Colosseum floor. There were 36 trap doors with elevators that allowed animals, gladiators, and scenery to be hoisted into the arena to create special effects to the spectators. They recently opened up tours (not part of the regular ticket) that allow you walk through the Hypogeum, walk onto the reconstructed floor, and go up to the third tier of the Colosseum. Though I have yet to do this tour myself, I think it would be worth the extra money to get the full scope of the amphitheater.
The much over-looked third stop that your ticket gets you into is Palatine Hill. Even in the height of the busy season this portion of the ruins is generally much less crowded and a welcome relief from the hordes of tourists in the Forum and Colosseum. Palatine Hill is the most famous of Rome’s seven hills and is the location of the of the supposed origins of the city (2 brothers were raised in a cave by a She-wolf there). Back in the day it was the most affluent neighborhood that housed many palaces of emperors and the well to do people of Rome. It over-looks the Forum to one side and the Circus Maximus (huge chariot racing stadium) to the other. Today you can walk through the ruins of the Flavian Palace, as well as the Stadium of Domitian while checking out the awesome views. There is also a small museum at the top with finds from the site.
If you haven’t walked yourself into exhaustion yet, one of my favorite hidden gems in Rome is Aventine Hill. Exit Palatine Hill, and hang a right (or if coming from the Colosseum, walk straight past the Arch of Constantine along the main road) continue until you get to the far side of the Circus Maximus. Take a left and head up the road. There is a big statue at the top. Go past the statue to the gated street and you’re in the right place. Along the road there is a large rose garden that’s open in May and June, some cool old churches, and an orange garden that has AWESOME views of the city. At the top of the street (before it curves left) you can peer through the keyhole to the Knights of Malta gate that perfectly frames the dome of St. Peters. This is also a great option to add to a more casual day if you have more time or don’t want to tack it on the end of your Ancient Rome day.
Food in ANCIENT ROME:
I’m going to be honest, I haven’t personally eaten in this neighborhood of Rome very much. So some of these I’m going to pull from my list of saved places recommended to me by other people.
Li Rioni a Santiquattro (Via dei Santi Quattro, 24): Serving up Roman style pizza (thin crust), this little restaurant is only a couple of blocks from the Colosseum. Note it is only open 7pm to midnight, so a good place to grab dinner after a full day of sight seeing.
Enoteca Wineconcept (Via Capo d'Africa, 21): A great place if you’re looking for a place to stop in for a glass of wine (or set up a wine tasting). A glass of wine averages only 4 Euro and you can pair it with a variety of meat and cheeses. They don’t have a full menu though so this is a good stop before dinner or to just take a break from the crowds. When I studied abroad I did a wine tasting class here and it was excellent!
Come Una Volta (Via dei Santi Quattro, 60): A good place to stop in for lunch or dinner as they are open from 10am to 12:30 at night. They have a variety of sandwiches and pizza.
DAY 3: The Vatican
Vatican Museum, St. Peter's Basilica, CASTEL SANT'ANGELO
For your final day in Rome, you get to go to an entirely different country! With 1,000 citizens and only 100 acres Vatican City is the smallest country in the world. Vatican City is headed by the Pope and the majority of citizens are either cardinals, clergy members, or members of the Swiss Guard. It is also home to the Vatican Museum and St. Peter’s Basilica.
Start your day by going to the Vatican Museum. If there is one place in Rome you need to order tickets ahead of time for, this is it. Trust me when I say you will wait HOURS in line if you don’t. Also note the last Sunday of every month is free entry, so although the price is good it gets extremely crowded! Unless you are on a very tight budget try and avoid going to the museum on this day. I also recommend either going first thing in the morning or in the afternoon to avoid the many tour groups that pass through.
If you reserve in advance, when you come from St. Peter's Square you can walk past the giant line that will no doubt be there and go straight into the museum. In the museum you will see the Raphael rooms, the Borgia apartments, the hall of tapestries, hall of maps, as well as many famous sculptures. Not on the main path to the Sistine Chapel is The Vatican Pinacoteca, which is essentially a paintings gallery. If you are into art, definitely make the time to see this additional gallery since it houses some well known works from Raphael, Da Vinci, Caravaggio, as well as others.
Your visit will end at Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel. Even if art is not your thing I guarantee you will be impressed. From the iconic Creation of Adam on the ceiling to the Last Judgement the chapel is not to be missed. If you look in the the top right corner of The Last Judgement you can see what it looked like before restoration. 500 years of candles and smoke definitely takes it’s toll. Fun fact, you can also see a self portrait of Michelangelo in the flayed skin to the bottom right of Jesus. Besides being a major tourist attraction the Sistine Chapel is still the personal chapel of the Pope and is used by the cardinals when it is time to elect a new Pope. Also note that no pictures are allowed in the Sistine Chapel and you are supposed to be silent (and a guard will ultimately shout “silenzio” every few minutes when people don’t follow this rule).
After you’ve made your way through more art than your brain can handle, head over to St. Peter’s Basilica. There’s generally a queue to get in here, but it goes pretty quickly. Dress code is strict so make sure that your knees and shoulders are covered. Also, no hats. To say this cathedral is impressive would be underselling it. Always my first thought is “Holy Shit,” to which I remind myself I’m in a church and that’s probably not what I should be thinking. Inside you will find Michelangelo’s Pietà, Bernini’s alter, 150 mosaics, and even 3 preserved former popes on display. Make sure to take in all the surroundings- if you look down you will see markers that show the size of other basilicas throughout the world (only 1 is larger than St. Peters). If you look up at the dome you will see two sets of writing made to look the same size, though the upper letters are 9 feet tall and the lower letters are 6 feet tall. On your way to the alter give the statue of St. Peter a touch on the foot to pay your respects to the first Pope. With over 250 years of kisses, touches, and prayers the toes of his foot have completely worn down.
If you want to see a different perspective on St. Peters you can climb the 551stairs to the top. Before entering St. Peter’s go right and you will see signs and a kiosk to purchase tickets. There’s an option to take an elevator to the roof for two extra euro (saving you 320 steps), but there’s no avoiding the other 231 steps. Like most things, either morning or afternoon will provide the least amount of tourists, so if you can opt to go then. Once you reach the roof, you will be directed into the inside of the dome. You can see the elaborate mosaic work up close, and look down on the main alter of the church. After the inner dome you will take a staircase that narrows and curves (not suggested if you are claustrophobic) to the top of the dome with breathtaking views of Rome. Make sure to walk all around so you can see St. Peter’s Square, the Vatican museum, the Vatican gardens, and all of Rome. After going back down you will be back on the roof (with bathrooms, a coffee bar and a gift shop), where you can take the elevator or stairs back down into the nave of the basilica.
After leaving the basilica head straight out of St. Peter’s Square toward Castel Sant’Angelo. Now a museum, the building has been a mausoleum, a military fortress, and a castle. There is even a fortified (used to be secret) passageway from the Vatican that the Pope could use if he was in danger. Inside there are rooms with beautiful frescoes, exhibits with antique military weapons, paintings and pottery, and of course the views are pretty spectacular with St. Peters and the Tiber river. Make sure to check out the Sant’Angelo Bridge as well. The bridge dates back to 135 AD and 10 angel statues were added during the Baroque period. From the end of the bridge it perfectly frames Castel Sant’Angelo.
Food BY THE VATICAN:
Bonci Pizzarium (Via della Meloria, 43): Located in the neighborhood behind the Vatican (so a little bit of a walk). Some of the best pizza by the slice (you chose how big a square you want) I’ve had in Rome. Also try the fresh supplì (fried risotto balls). If the line is too crazy they have a second restaurant Panifico Bonci (Via Trionfale 36) farther into the Prati neighbor hood that serves pastries, breads, and pizza (just with less options).
Old Bridge Gelato (Viale dei Bastioni di Michelangelo): Located directly across from the line to get into to Vatican museum you can find this very popular gelato shop. They’ve been serving up gelato for over 30 years and with a variety of flavors using fresh ingredients it’s definitely worth the queue that sometimes forms.
Be.Re. (Via Vespasiano, 2): With 25 different beers on tap Be.Re. is a great place to stop between the Vatican museum and visiting St. Peters. Their main menu consists of Trapizzino, which is essentially a crispy piece of bread with various toppings. Great place to have lunch and since it’s right down the road from Old Bridge Gelato, so you can get that for dessert as you head back towards St. Peters.
There you have it friends, my recommendations to see the most iconic places in Rome in 3 days! Do you have any Rome must-sees that I missed? Let me know in the comments below. I’m always looking for new places in one of my favorite cities in the world.